Washington Pass and Mazama - Alpine and Rock Climbing

Washington Pass is one of my favorite places to go, especially later in the fall when the rains start to come to the west side. Located on the far eastern end of the North Cascades, these routes are often dry when everywhere else is wet.

The shorter routes here are multi-pitch rock climbs - the longer routes are committing and remote enough to qualify as alpine climbs. Several land in the great area of the rock/alpine venn diagram - if you climb them efficiently they're a rock climb, if you have too many "sideways" moments they become alpine!

Because of the travel time, this really works best as a two-day trip or longer. Lodging options run the full spectrum of possibilities from posh lodges and B&B's in Mazama or Winthrop, two great hostels, and camping possible near the pass.

Mazama Cragging

Surrounding the town of Mazama is fantastic single-pitch climbing. Great for a half-day or an "easy" day to balance out an alpine climbing trip up at Washington Pass. Its also awesome for family groups. Max ratio - 1:4.

Introductory Climbs

If you want to learn about or practice your multi-pitch rock skills, these are awesome climbs with fantastic position.

  • The South Arete of South Early Winter Spire, II 5.6
  • The Beckey Route of Liberty Bell, II 5.7
  • Spontaneity Arete of Le Petit Cheval, III 5.7
  • Blue's Buttress of Poster Peak, III 5.7

Intermediate Climbs

  • Overexposure route of Liberty Bell, II 5.8
  • South Buttress of Cutthroat Peak, III 5.8
  • Southwest Rib of South Early Winter Spire, III 5.8+
  • West Ridge of Paisano Pinnacle, IV 5.9-
  • Prime Rib of Goat Wall, IV 5.9

Advanced Climbs

  • North Face of Burgundy Spire, IV 5.8/5.9
  • East Face of Lexington Tower, III 5.9+
  • Northwest Corner of North Early Winter Spire, III5.9+

Bonus Climb!

Direct East Buttress of South Early Winter Spire, IV 5.10a

Private dates are available for these climbs, July-October.

Almost all of these routes are best climbed at a 1:1 ratio.

I'm able to offer these trips in cooperation with The Mountain Bureau, or North Cascades Mountain Guides.