Torment-Forbidden Traverse, V 5.6

3 days, June-September


This climb is so classic for me that it deserved its own page. The Torment-Forbidden Traverse is a 1.5-mile alpine adventure that requires all the skills in the alpinist toolbox. A moderate approach day sets us up for two full days of rock climbing, and an afternoon descent through alpine meadows.

Day 1

We'll pick up our permits in the small town of Marblemount. Then we'll drive up to the Boston Basin trailhead, where we'll park and hike up into the basin, traversing through and climbing up into Torment Basin, for our first night's bivy.

Day 2

We'll be getting an alpine start to this day for certain! An easy climb up the Torment snowfield leads to the beginning of the South Ridge, a moderate 5.4 rock route to the summit of Mt Torment (8120' / 2475m). Then the real work begins - a long traverse towards Forbidden Peak, staying on rock (up to 5.6) as much as realistically possible. This is ridge is a mile long! We'll end the day in a ridge-top camp at the top of the West Ridge Couloir.

Day 3

Another early morning will find us climbing the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak (8815' / 2687m). Forbidden is one of those classic alpine horns, carved away by glaciers on three even sides to leave a massive point. After taking in the summit views we'll head back the way we ascended, pick up our bivy kits at the notch, and continue down into Boston Basin. A beautiful alpine hike leads into heavy woods and our transportation back down to the first car.


Private dates are available for this climb, June-October.

I offer these trips as a guide-employee of Pro Guiding Service.