The Snoqualmie Trilogy

3 Days, July-October


Before Highway 20 cut through the North Cascades, Snoqualmie Pass was the training ground for generations of aspiring climbers. With only a 50-minute drive from my home in Seattle, and an 1:30 hike, I can climb 6-10 pitch climbs from 4th class to 5.8, and that feel much more alpine than just rock.

This is a special three day alpine link-up of Chair Peak, Kaleetan Peak, and the Byrant-Tooth Traverse. To have it the quietest experience, I really recommend starting this tour on a Saturday. 


Day 1 - Chair Peak

Depending on your background, we'll hike up to the NE Buttress of Chair Peak, drop packs, and climb either the NE Buttress, the West Ridge, or the East Face. I really recommend the East Face (5.6) - it has solid rock and great climbing. After tagging the top we'll rap down, collect our packs, and hike to Melakwa Point, where a series of scrambles and possible a few short rappels gain us an alpine camp on the granite shores of Chair Leak. LINK for more information about climbing Chair Peak.


Day 2 - Kaleetan Peak

After a sunrise breakfast, we'll shoulder our packs to climb the North Ridge of Kaleetan Peak (5.4). Keep an eye out for the occasional fixed soft-iron piton, signs that this climb had been done before the Second World War. A climber's trail leads down from the summit to our camp for the night at lower Melakwa Lake.


Day 3 - Bryant-Tooth Traverse

A 45-minute hike from camp leads to the Bryant Col, and the start of the Bryant-Tooth Traverse. 7 pitches up the North Ridge of Bryant Peak (5.6) leads to two rappels, an easy hike up and over Hemlock Peak, then 7 more pitches up the North Ridge of the Tooth(5.5). 6 rappels down the popular South Face leads to Pineapple Basin and a 3-mile hike out to the trailhead. 


Private dates are available June-October. Max ratio 2:1.

I offer these trips as a co-owner of the Certified Guides Co-Operative.