Eldorado Peak - 8876' / 2705m

Eldorado Peak is another Cascade classic, titled "Queen of the Cascade River" by Fred Beckey, and listed in every select guidebook printed for the region. Its white summit is distinctive from all sides, and Eldorado towers over the southern access to the largest continuous ice cap in the lower 48 not resting on one of the Cascade volcanoes.

Eldorado Peak is also an objective on the Inspiration High Route Trek, the Forbidden Ski Tour, Basic Alpine Skills, and climbs in the Eldorado-Inspiration zone. 

East Ridge - 2 Days

The East Ridge the classic route up this classic peak. Maybe I'm using "classic" too much, but I don't think so. A six-hour approach finishes with a crossing of the Eldorado Glacier to a fantastic campsite at the toe of the East Ridge with expansive views across the Inspiration Glacier to Mt Torment and Forbidden Peak. In the morning we'll have breakfast with sunrise, then a climb up the Inspiration Glacier to the East Ridge and finally the famous knife-edge arete to the summit. To descend we'll simply backtrack, pick up camp, and continue back to the cars. Max ratio - 4:1

West Ridge and other climbs

The West Ridge and other routes are fantastic projects too. You can read more about them here: LINK.

The Eldorado East Ridge Bullet

This is the endurance test: car-to-car. With light packs carrying only what we need for the day, its an alpine start and a marathon to get it done. Extreme rates apply. Max ratio - 3:1

The second, third and eighth photos are from my personal collection. The remainder were taken by Karsten Delap from Fox Mountain Guides. Thanks Karsten!

I offer these trips as a guide-employee of The Mountain Bureau.